CUT OR UNCUT

The Scene: Richard Meier Architectural
Cuisine: Steak House to the next level
Must Try: Kobe Steak
Star Rating: 3.5 of 4
Average Cost: $30-$120 for Entrees

The Regent Beverly Wilshire
9500 Wilshire Blvd. (N. Beverly Dr.)
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310-276-8500

The pun is so obvious, not even the fabulous Dining Duo would touch it with a ten-inch pole!

This restaurant really makes the cut. At the Regent Beverly Hills Hotel, the once dingy “dining room” steeped in history has been completely transformed by Maestro Wolfgang Puck and architect Richard Meier. Gone are the dark booths, replaced with light ash wood floors, white walls and French windows that beckon in light. The ceiling is equally bright. A few strands of green ivy adorn the corner, and the wait-staff, clad totally in black, contrast the clean palate.

The moment you enter, the myriad staff bustles over you. Tracy, our beautiful, Irish lassie, more than impressed us with her accomplished style and attentive service. When Scott asked the difference between two wine selections, she immediately brought samples of each; nice touch. Our wine was beautifully decanted, and the bottle displayed on a silver tray.

A variety of meat cuts were presented, displaying the nature of Kobe beef prior to its preparation. The servers delivered food with utmost precision, orienting the plates so that the presentation was properly positioned. The busboys poured water, offering a napkin shield in front so that sprinkles would not end on your plate.

The appetizers are lip-smacking. We drooled over the dessert-like Foie Gras Pave, with Tunisian-spiced tuiles, and a lacquering of date chutney ($22). Also not to be missed was the lobster and crab “Louis” cocktail, served with a spicy tomato horseradish for $26. The maple-glazed pork belly coated with a sesame-orange dressing and garnished with watercress ($16) delighted Scott, although Michael thought it paled compared to the other extraordinary appetizers.

Come to Cut for the meats. All of the dishes created by Chef Ari Rosenson, are char-grilled, then placed under a 1200º broiler to seal in the juices and melt the meat so it’s tender and buttery. The Kobe Wagyu beef is said to be corn-fed, sake- and beer-imbibed, and even massaged to make happy cows. The Dining Duo’s question is “Whose job is that?” With no artificial hormones and environmentally friendly, the true Japanese 100% Wagyu beef from Kagoshima, Japan, offers six ounces of New York sirloin for $120; for that price, we’d rather have Kobe Bryant, but it was as tasty as we assume he would be; probably better. The grilled Sonoma lamb chops ($48) rocked the Dining.

The hamburger sliders, a combination of American Wagyu and Angus “Kobe Style” beef from Idaho are best with celestial French fries. Don’t miss the tempura onion rings and the caramelized sweet corn, as well as a variety of other tantalizing side dishes, all for $10 each.

For sweets, the Lady in Red Peach “Melba”, served with pistachio gelato, comes with a fascinating story originating Peach Melba in 1871. While enjoying the environment, placemats, tables, chairs, and cutlery, all created by Richard Meier, try the Inside-Out Profiteroles, served up with coffee-chicory ice cream, a must for dark chocolate lovers. Wolfgang circulates the room, shaking hands with the known and unknown, while the likes of Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn enjoy dinner here. Don’t come if you’re on a budget, though.