“GOSH, MR. WILSON”

The Scene: Architectural Loft
Cuisine: Cutting edge
Must Try: Chocolate Natia
Star Rating: 2 out of 4
Average Cost: Entrees $14-$35

Wilson Food and Wine
8631 Washington Blvd
Culver City, CA 90232
(310) 287-2093

Just down the street from the old Helms Bakery, amidst hip furniture stores and a new flurry of restaurants, is Wilson’s Food and Wine. Housed in a ‘50’s modern-deck building with glass windows affording a view to Washington Boulevard, this unassuming diner-like restaurant is downstairs from a series of contemporary lofts and commercial spaces. The back patio screams industrial, with concrete walls, stainless steel tables, and a series of bamboo-laden pots (none of which hide the incessant barking dogs located just beyond).

Although the menu offers some interesting selections, brought to us by handsome Chef Michael Wilson, formerly of 5 Dudley in Venice, none of them particularly grabbed us. The special appetizer heirloom tomatoes and goat cheese salad at $16 was succulent and loaded with goat cheese. Scott started with the appetizer version of the spaghetti à la Lina, which was an exciting sauce of olive oil, toasted almonds, arugula, and tomato ($14), and one of the nicer selections on the menu. The special soup, a carrot puree with an assortment of spices and olive oil, weighed in as a favorite as well, although not for those expecting a traditional carrot bisque.

Unfortunately, the entrees were mediocre at best. The baked wild Alaskan king salmon with skewered shallots, Swiss chard, and poppy seeds, garnished with citrus butter, tasted like a watery mish-mash of spices and uninspired fish. Equally perplexing was the slow-roasted pork with African spices, fresh corn polenta, and barbecued fresh cherry sauce ($23) that left Michael with an unsettled stomach.

Our waiter called us “darling,” “dear,” and “love” throughout the evening, which oddly compensated for the mediocre service comprised of bringing entrees at unequal times, forgetting to bring the tea, and a variety of other unpolished services. The best news of the evening was the desserts, and in particular the chocolate natia, which tasted like a delicious chocolate pudding. While we enjoyed this tremendously with our two dinner guests, one of them summed up the evening saying that dining on the patio was like “dining at the reception area of a state prison.”

Prison attire aside, we did enjoy the experience and would recommend it for lunch if you find yourself exploring Culver City.