CUT on Valentine’s Day
By Tony Valenzuela
My husband, Rob, and I celebrated our first Valentine’s Day as a married couple at Wolfgang Puck’s Cut, the celebrity chef’s signature LA steakhouse, located in the storied Beverly Wilshire Hotel. Already showered with accolades since its opening in June 2006, including “restaurant of the year” in Esquire magazine, I’d made our reservation a month early to secure our table for 2 at 8 pm – or so I thought. When I called the week before to confirm, there was no record of it.
My conversation with Patty, the maitre d’, went something like this: In attempting to explain, I am quickly interrupted by Patty who takes a curt tone. “We didn’t start taking Valentine’s reservations until the 16th. You would not have a reservation unless you returned the pre-pay form.” I reply, calmly, “But I made our reservation with the hostess on the 14th and was never offered a form …” Patty, confrontationally, “I am not getting into a confrontation with you.” I come back with, “But I …” Dismissively, Patty says, “I’m going to get off the phone now. Will have to see what I can do and call you back.”
Astonished, I hung up. I felt like Pretty Woman ignored by the Rodeo Drive shopkeeper (DD's note: good reference Tony, same hotel as in the movie too). Does Cut consider itself recession proof? Was it that I’m not a celebrity that the maitre d’ wouldn’t even entertain the possibility that this may have been their error? Not to be mistaken as conciliatory, Patty called later that evening to give us 9 pm.
Let me jump ahead of this unpleasantness to discuss the food, much of which was excellent, and ultimately a good reason you may choose to pay the steep prices at Cut. The five-course Valentine’s Day menu was priced at $120 per person and started with a nice amuse bouche of mini potato-parmesan knishes. As an appetizer, Rob ordered the maple glazed pork belly that was savory sweet and tender as butter. My Maine diver scallop gratin with black truffles was sublime. I could have eaten two dozen and happily forfeited the rest of the meal. The sides included creamed spinach topped with a fried egg, tempura onion rings, a delicious soft polenta with parmesan and a sauté of vegetables. The courses were spaced appropriately and delivered with attentive and professional skill by our server, Jennifer.
The main event at Cut is the steak, of course. The restaurant chars their meat, which is not my preference, but it does keep the juices inside. Rob’s 20-ounce rib eye and my 10-ounce sirloin were very good, but not great. As we were enjoying our meal which was by most accounts exceptional, I could not shake the feeling that some customers at Cut are not as valued as some others, and here’s why.
When we were finally seated at a quarter past nine, we weren’t placed in the dining room exactly but in a landing leading to it. Four provisional tables had been set up to accommodate the overflow. Our table was the first of these nearest the entrance jutted up against the corner wall. Rob’s view was of the open kitchen and mine was 6 inches behind Rob’s head: a fire extinguisher, an “A” grade, a hazardous materials notice and an unused elevator. The award-winning design of the dining room by the Getty Center’s celebrity architect, Richard Meier, was lost on us completely.
Rob called the manager. To his credit, Andrey Godzhik listened with grace and modesty and in the end comped our $98 bottle of Phelps Cabernet, a considerable gesture of good will. But the insult to injury of our table sadly marred the restaurant’s evident strengths and though Rob’s dark chocolate soufflé and my warm brioche doughnuts were heavenly, our Valentine’s Day dinner at Cut will probably be remembered by an ungracious maitre d’, a lousy table and the rest of the staff that did its best to make up for it.
CUT
The Regent Beverly Wilshire
9500 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills
(310) 276-8500
wolfgangpuck.com
Friday
Bobcat Bite is a local hang out for the best burgers in the country! John and Bonnie Eckre are the current owners since the last 8 years; but Bonnie is no novice to the store, having worked there for 18 years. Seating only 26 folks, the Bobcat is a home-style diner with a counter and a few tables. As you might imagine, located out of Santa Fe on the old Las Vegas Hwy, this find has a friendly relaxed atmosphere catering mostly to local regulars. Their beef is natural, hormone free and is a combination of chuck and sirloin, which they grind fresh everyday. The secret to the incredible flavor of the burgers is that it's cooked on a 50-year-old cast iron grill that has as many stories hidden in it as flavors. Served with grilled potatoes and vinegar-based depression era coleslaw, both are wonderful and different than the usual accompaniments to burgers. Yummy. Us Santa Fe locals definitely know "Where’s the beef.” Bobcat Bite420 Old Las Vegas HighwaySanta Fe, NM 87505 (505) 983-5319
Your Santa Fe Mobile Reporter, Donna Karol
Thursday
XIV by Michael Mina
8117 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-656-1414
1. Michael Mina, Chef extraordinaire (with “Best Chef” accolades from Bon Appetit, San Francisco Magazine and the James Beard Foundation, from San Francisco) has opened his fourteenth restaurant with Chef Steven Fretz, and his very first in L.A (after cutting his chops at the Bel Air Hotel as a pastry chef 20 years ago), located at the former Coconut Teaser, a place we all know, but never visited. MM has changed that forever with a twelve million dollar renovation.
2. French designer Philippe Starck has created yet another amazing environment with the juxtaposition of an interior that honors Louis IV on one half of the restaurant, as contrasted by a steel bar and stainless walls honoring aliens on the other side. 
As if air lifted from a French Chateau, the ying of this space is homage to a time gone by, filled with opulent warm wood paneling, random stacked books, a mélange of comfy sofas, tables and fireplaces adorned with candles and pictures. The yang space makes you remember that you’re in L.A. in 2009 and that the only thing that stays the same is change.
3. With myriad seating choices from red leather sofas to comfy French-inspired chairs, we were seated at a wood table
that provided a bird’s eye view of the action in the main dining room; and we do mean action as there is apparently no recession at this venue, and with good cause.
4. XIV is a unique dining experience. It melds impeccable modern American cuisine with the concept of “social dining” to foster a dynamic and engaging atmosphere. The diverse and fabulous menu is based on individual tasting portions, and although it is recommended that the table order the same items, they are more than willing to accommodate food tastes and orientations (we ordered the Beef Carpaccio, seasoned perfectly with horseradish,
but since Scott doesn’t eat meat, they served (from an entire vegan menu) Beet Carpaccio. 
Although the concept is at first a bit perplexing, the truth is that it allows you to share the same dining experience without the hassle of splitting and stealing food off your partner’s plate.
5. You can create the ultimate tasting menu, at $8 per course, or order one from the Chef, which is exactly what we did, which consisted of—bet you can’t guess—fourteen scrumptious courses ($95). No matter when you go, no dining experience will be the same, making it fun and interesting as well as beyond delicious.
6. The menu is arranged in categories of shellfish, garden veggies, fish,
poultry and light meats, cheese and chocolates, fruits and nuts.
7. It’s difficult to choose highlights of the menu as—honestly—almost everything was a stand-alone stand out. That said, do not miss Foie Gras Terrine, with cranberry and Greek yogurt, one of Scott’s favorite dishes that chef Steven brings to an entirely new level. 
8. The Jidori chicken which comes out of their own Jidori oven with truffled mac & cheese was divine; the Dining Duo loves the new Mac n’ cheeses out there, but this is the definite winner. It is accompanied with traditional house made Nan bread and a medium spiced Feta cheese (as all their dishes are). 
9. Michael’s caviar parfait offers some competition to our perennial favorite at Per Se, in New York. It is prepared with a selection with Osetra and American farm raised caviars, which are superb, and a must if you have not tried them. 
10. The hamachi sashimi is so fresh that you swear it was just fished. 
11. The chilled Maine lobster with potatoes, celery and truffles created a new level for a standard; and we can never get enough truffles. 
12. We suggest the wine pairings so that you can experience the large and varied selections of wines that enhance each dish served. The list is from an eclectic list of small producers that come primarily from Europe and California.
13. There is an outdoor patio that looks so sexy and inviting, we can’t wait for a warm night to experience the elegance of a marble bar, teak benches and romantic chandeliers; 
14. 
After an eating orgy that will leave your stomach satiated and your brain wine-soaked,
XIV will happily call their sister hotel, the brand new SLS on La Cienega (review coming soon), who will pick you up in a limo and give you a deep discount on a room for the night. This seemed like a great plan to us…but the doggie was at home patiently awaiting our arrival, review and doggie bag.
Friday
KETCHUP
8590 West Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood, Ca. 90069
310 289 8590
Cuisine: 50’s malt shop updated
Must Try: Chicken Tacos
Star Rating: 1.50 (out of 4 stars)
Average Cost: Entrees $13 to $38
Ketchup is the latest addition to the Dolce group’s restaurants (dolcegroup.com) and the décor is entertaining, if not amazing. After wandering up a flight of stairs to be told that we should go back down the same stairs for a host to take us back up the very same stairs, we were overtaken by the ingenuity of this eatery. Unfortunately, that is the best part. The painting of a gigantic ketchup bottle anchors the restaurant and sets the tone for fun. The hosts are glamorous, the servers are hot and so who cares about food, right? The executive chef, Christopher Tunnell may stop by your table and greet you (he was so nice, we didn’t have the heart to tell him the food was just above awful) and the handsome, young and enterprising owner Sylvain Bitton (hailing from restaurant lineage) is on the scene.
Once your eyes adjust to the ketchupy-red glow of the red ball lights above each table, you can’t help but focus on one major problem, and that is the food; too bad, really, because the set up is exhilarating. Keep in mind, Ketchup has only been opened for a few months and The Dining Duo is hopeful it will get better but at present there are only two items on the menu worth devouring and they are both appetizers. The mini Chicken Tacos at $12 are sensational; they consist of fire grilled chicken and everything one would expect in a taco but little in size and better than we’ve tasted almost anywhere. The Baby Skins at $11 are very good and well stacked with two cheeses and smoky bacon and, needles to say, a variety of ketchup choices; five different kinds in fact. All Ketchup’s ketchups are good but not memorable and that is disappointing in a restaurant that bears that name. Stay away from the Kobe Burger Sliders at $17 as they were almost devoid of flavor. We didn’t get to try the Chicken Pot (creamy chicken soup) at $15 but it sounded hopeful.
Just before appetizers, a young hot woman came strolling by with a portable bar, offering up tastes of drinks available. The idea was magnificent; if only the libations we tasted didn’t remind us of liquid bubble-gum mixed with some other vile canned drink reminiscent of our childhoods in the sixties when no one cared if they loaded up your carbonation with cancer-colored concoctions.
The only main course that we found reasonably edible was the Beer Can Chicken at $19 which is a beer braised (Samuel Adams) whole chicken and while we considered it somewhat tasty, it would not be worth mentioning anywhere else; but we bring it up at Ketchup because there a few other entrees that we could write about. We did enjoy the old style Sweet Potato Tater Tots with their ketchup at $9, which was perfectly served. Michael, who is a huge Mac n’ cheese fan tried theirs at $14 and while he thought it was acceptable, he decided Scott’s home made Mac with gruyere, aged cheddar, smokey bacon and several spices was much better. Good answer, Michael….and that explains why The Dining Duo has been sharing food for over 21 years!
Oh, and don’t valet park your car on Sunset. After they charge you a ridiculous $10 bucks to re-adjust your seats and smell up your car, they then have you wandering behind the restaurant and down an escalator into the building’s parking lot so that you can further wander the structure for another ten minutes looking for a valet to bring you back your car. Don’t forget the additional $1 tip for this so-called service and stop for some Tums for the ride home.
Sunday
74-155 El Paseo (Highway 111)
Palm Desert, CA 92260
(760) 776-8242
We know when you go to Palm Springs you have fun in the sun on your mind and only want to wear shorts and flip-flops, but just pull out some nice threads for this romantic, enchanting, and superb dining venue that sets itself as a jewel atop the crown of restaurants in the Coachella Valley area; you won’t be sorry.
Walking through the striking, old wrought-iron gates, you enter another world that bespeaks of somewhere colonial in Latin America, and definitely Old World Palm Springs. A family affair, Jay Trubee and his lovely wife, June, have transformed Palm Desert’s first edifice circa 1948 into a hacienda filled with beautiful art and antiques, exuding the warmth of its era.
Named after the Trubee’s first daughter, Jillian’s accomplishments are constantly touted in magazines such as Gourmet Magazine and The Wine Spectator, winning the latter’s award of excellence since 1994. Each and every opportunity we have to enjoy an evening at Jillian’s never disappoints, and a great deal of this is attributed by the Trubee’s to their exceedingly loyal staff, most of whom have been with them since they opened in 1986.
There are four beautiful rooms surrounding a charming patio, and each and every location creates its own atmosphere worthy of a several-hour feasting experience. A perfect place for outdoor dining amidst the magical lighting, or an evening by the piano bar will immediately put you in an enchanted mood. The Mackenzie Room, named after the Trubee’s other daughter, is filled with old beams, low ceilings, and charisma galore.
The food here matches the warmth and attention to detail of the edifice. Chef Jay has been trained at the Culinary Institute of America and travels Europe and the United States in order to create a broad and wonderful cuisine. He insists that all bread (you’re immediately served piping hot potato bread imbued with molasses and honey), pastas, and desserts be made in house and daily. If this isn’t enough, he is also responsible for the impressive and extensive wine list.
Enjoying superlative service from the amiable captain from Portugal, Mindo, to the handsome busboy, Edward, our dining experience was flawless. Although the crowd is a bit “Vintage” and a little staid, there were certainly a variety of folks from all corners of the desert, including—of course—The Dining Duo.
We suggest starting with the Tower of Fresh Crab, which was comprised of fresh Dungeness crab meat layered between diced avocado, sweet tomato, and served on a toasted brioche ($16). The crab was sweet and delicate, and the mélange of flavors absolutely superb. The spicy corn chowder topped with fiery salsa and crackle bacon and chives also proved to be a nice selection ($9.75) and excelled when compared to corn chowders elsewhere. Don’t miss one of Chef Jay’s pasta creations. We suggest the cannelloni di casa, which was a dish of homemade tubes of pasta filled with a rich mixture of imported cheeses, spinach, and sausage, all served up in an ethereal tomato-tinted cream sauce ($24).
The entrées are equally as enticing, and we have enjoyed the rack of lamb on several occasions, all with the same degree of excellence. The lamb is from Colorado, and it’s rolled in a Dijon herb crust, roasted and presented on a fresh rosemary-scented demi-glace ($42). It was ordered medium-rare, and it arrived with perfection. The lamb was juicy and tender, and the meal rewarding. The salmon in parchment is also a beautiful creation and consists of a filet of organic Scottish salmon wrapped in parchment paper with julienne vegetables, crème fraîche, and aromatic fresh herbs ($29). Although we did not have the prime boneless short ribs on this occasion, Michael has had this in the past and found it equally outstanding. Braised succulent short ribs in a California cabernet smothered with tomatoes, vegetables and fresh herbs are placed on mashed potatoes with horseradish crème fraîche and melted leeks ($30). Quite frankly, you can’t go wrong with any of their entrée selections.
Completely stuffed by the time dessert comes around, we nevertheless managed to devour a sampling of the enormous selection offered here. Our particular favorites were the raspberry crème brulée, which was a nice turn on the normal crème brulée, with fresh raspberries studded in rich custard with a caramelized sugar crust. Of course, dessert is not dessert without something chocolate, and their double chocolate layer cake was divine. It’s a moist dark chocolate cake layered with Belgian semi-sweet chocolate mousse and raspberries (Scott could have done without the fruit in his chocolate; nonetheless, it was outstanding) glazed with a bittersweet chocolate and placed in a pool of fresh raspberry coulis. If you feel like something chocolate and not fruity, try the chocolate brioche pudding for an amazing taste treat of warmed and glazed brioche with a bittersweet chocolate sauce drizzled with grand marnier. All desserts are $10 and so worth it.
And speaking of worth it…it’s worth getting out of the Jacuzzi and dressing up for a night out on the town at Jillian’s. As a bonus, the proprietor June is delightfully Scottish, so what could be better than that…other than a Scottish terrier?!
Tuesday
Simon
8555 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles CA 90048
310. 358-3979
The Scene: Brand new, hip and happening.
Cuisine: Meat & Potatoes, with a cotton candy edge.
Must Try: Tuna Dynamite
Star Rating: 3 of 4
Average Cost: $22-$38 for Entrees
What happens when you take the Mondrian Hotel scene, mix it with the Abbey, sprinkle in some Asia de Cuba, and shake it all up? You get Simon LA. With seating for 175 inside and on the outside chic terrace, this monochromatic restaurant filled with booths backed by cut wood which reflects like a thousand trees has raced out of the gate as LA’s newest, hip place to see and be seen.
Under the impeccable management of long-time restaurateur Douglas Wickard (Maple Drive and Vibrato), Chef Kerry Simon creates his edible magic in a clean, open kitchen. The interesting and tasty menu offers earlier evening and late night culinary possibilities that delight the senses.
Most of the appetizers dazzled our taste buds. The Blue fin tuna tartar prepared in lemongrass oil with ginger rice crisps was a standout at $16. Grilled gazpacho made from summer vegetables and avocado ($10) was one of Michael’s favorites. We loved the colossal crab cake accompanied by young papaya Asian slaw for $16, although friends at the table thought that the uniformity and crispiness of the cake somehow detracted from the presentation; nonetheless we downed every last morsel.
Don't fill up on the fabulous wood-roasted pizzas, as the entrees are also delectable. The tandoori wild Pacific salmon was prepared with a black bean salad and mango and measured up as one of the tastier wild salmon dishes ($28). The prime meats are Chef Simon’s specialties, and we had to agree. Of particular note was the lamb porterhouse ($38), which was tender, juicy, and seasoned just right. Michael loved the ziti with herb pesto, ricotta salata and tomatoes ($19), while we both managed to down the horribly fattening, yet terrifically delicious buttermilk onion rings. All of this was washed with an exceptional 2002 bottle of Blue Rock’s Syrah from Alexander Valley that was smoky and sensational ($63).
We had already thrown abs to the wind by devouring the delicious breadbasket, so we decided to go for the desserts, many of which are fun and a throwback to our childhood, like a giant cotton candy, cherry pie, cookies and milk, and our particular favorite, Simon’s junk food sampler (all dessert items are $8, except for the junk food sampler, which is $25).
The crowd gay and straight, and skews younger on the weekends. We didn’t care about the crowd as long as we got our grilled donuts and hot chocolate. Our recommendation is to come quick before everyone in LA catches on.
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