
Santa Claus and Hanakkah Harry were very good to us this past holiday season. We traveled to Maui for our annual holiday family vacation and with perfect weather and glowing tans, we reserved every evening for the many terrific restaurants that this little island has to offer. Since we know so many of our friends love to frolic in the warm seas of Maui, we wanted to share with you these “must do” eateries.
Gerard's Restaurant
174 Lahainaluna rd.
Lahaina, Hawaii 96761
(808) 661-8939
The Dining Duo was transported to a time and place beyond that of an American tourist destination thanks to owner/chef, Gerard. When you walk into the historic Inn that houses Gerard’s, the moment you inhale the exotic smell of burning incense, you feel as if you are a colonial in South-east Asia a century ago.
Gerard's may win hands down for the most charming restaurant in Maui and, not surprisingly, the food is probably the best on the Island. Gerard's is set in downtown Lahaina and it is our recommendation to take advantage of the lovely verandah in the front to dine al fresco amongst the striking palms and local flowers. Even if raining, the atmosphere is ethereal. You may have the opportunity to be treated royally by Poppy, a server from Monterey, California, but if not her, you will find all the staff is very well trained for white-glove service. The wine list is quite extensive and well priced and features a number of half bottles (which are not offered nearly enough in restaurants as far as The Dining Duo is concerned).
Although their weakest link is plain, cold uneventful bread, there are three starters which stand above the rest, two are soups, 
The Chilled Cucumber soup with Floating Goat Cheese ($9.50), is always sensational and very appropriate to the Hawaiian climate. It has a lot of zest and is a perfect way to begin a meal, as is their latest endeavor, the Shrimp Bisque, with home made croutons and cognac, a true taste treat. Gerard's also offers one of the finest Foie Gras dishes that we have tasted. It can be ordered in a terrine but we prefer seared with Macadamia nuts and French toast ($24.50).
One will not go wrong with their fresh fish offerings, which vary from night to night (your server will give you a detailed explanation). Scott savored his favorite dish, Rack of Lamb ($44.50),
prepared medium rare to perfection and accompanied by exceptional, fluffy, potatoes au gratin. Michael was slightly unhappy this visit (we’ve been here over 20 visits) with the Roasted Quail with Foie Gras ($39.50) which left him hungry and tired from trying to find the meat (isn’t that always the story with Michael?).
There was little and it lacked taste.
Do save room for desserts. Their Crème Brule is one of our favorites because it’s as if it were dropped in from Paris, with just the right amount of sugar and flame on top. The Dusty Road ($9.50), which features both coffee and chocolate ice cream, is laced with butterscotch and chocolate sauces, Chantilly cream, macadamia nuts and chocolate dust, is our favorite. Gerard's may become your home away from home in Maui, but like the other special spots, it is expensive, so plan accordingly.
THE LAHAINA GRILL (formerly David Paul’s)
127 Lahainaluna Road
Lahaina, HI 96761
Dinner served nightly from 6 PM
Reservations Recommended
(808) 667-5117
Email: davidpauls@lahainagrill.com
Don’t let the name change fool you. Everything’s the same at The Lahaina Grill, especially the same marvelous food and same superlative service.
Returning to The Lahaina Grill each year is like going to an old friend’s for dinner; an old friend who just happens to be a talented chef with an exquisite kitchen. Superbly run and owned by the ever-charming Swiss Yurg Munch,
we adore this spot smack in the center of old Lahaina Town, which is another absolute favorite restaurant in Maui. With its colonial interior motif and intimate feel, it’s always consistent and has never disappointed us during our more than 20 visits throughout the years.
The bar is in the center of the main room, and is always a scene. The drink menu is filled with tropical creations, and the wine selections are plentiful. We love to start our meal either with their true Maui Onion Soup (Maui onions are known worldwide for their sweet and non-odorous onions) which is simmered in a rich chicken stock and sherry, ($11.00) and their other sensational soup is the their Classic sweet Kula Corn soup with chive crème fraiche ($11.00).
There are so many delicious appetizer choices that we suggest picking several and splitting them amongst your dining companions; don’t miss “the Cake walk” ($19.00), which actually is a combination of crab, lobster and ahi cakes.
It’s Hawaii, so indulge in the fresh fish that abounds; the daily catch is always creatively and exquisitely prepared. There was a stoppage on the fishing of Opakapaka for about 7 months, and The Grill gladly complied (when other smaller restaurants still purchased the overfished and protected fish from local fishermen), but the ban has been lifted and their Opakapaka served with Kula spinach, herb infused mashed potatoes, Gorgonzola, pancetta and Chardonnay beurre blanc for $38 was a plate licker.
The two pound lobster in truffle butter with foie gras spinach and chaterelle mushrooms is available ($62.00), and is stupendous. Saving room for all of the above is difficult when their mouthwatering bread is freshly baked, served piping hot with garlic laced butter; a meal in itself.
Worried about squeezing into a speedo or teeny-weeny-bikini? Too late. They have two chocolate concoctions, both worth the poundage. Make sure to sample the Sunken Chocolate Cake, flourless chocolate decadence (with real Kona coffee ice cream) for $11.00, and their Kauai Pie, with Oreo crusted Kona coffee ice cream with rich chocolate fudge for $12. Appropriate wine pairings are available with each course, as well as with the desserts.
If you have six to eight friends with you, call way ahead to reserve their “private room” off the main dining room; it’s charming and intimate. If you’re alone, eat at the bar, mingle with new friends and say hello to Mary, the nicest and sexiest bartender on the island.
SEAFOOD SENSEI RESTAURANT And SUSHI BAR
KAPALUA, MAUI
115 Bay Drive, Kapalua, HI
(808) 666-6286
This place should be named “SENSATIONAL” as that tells the story plain and simple. It’s a schlep up to Kapalua from almost anywhere (except, well, Kapalua), and it rains or sprinkles most of the time, but it’s well worth it. The food creations here makes Katsuya in L.A. look like your neighborhood sushi place.
The place is low keyed, housed in a more traditional plantation-style wooden building in a clustering of commercial buildings, but you’re not going for the atmosphere, you’re going for the off the hook taste sensations. Even Scott who doesn’t like sushi loves the giant assortment of what they have to offer here.
We recommend skipping entrée selections and instead sharing the chef’s recommendations, all of which are marked on the menu. The service is often times more of a fast food establishment, lacking polish and attention, but again, that’s not why you’re here, so we can overlook it (with two giant exceptions, below). When ordering, we recommend putting your order in two plates at a time as they tend to bring everything together and rush you past the throngs of waiting customers and out the door.

The menu earmarks “a sensei original” and “a must try”, so skip the rest. D.K.’s Crab Ramen with Asian truffle broth is beyond delicious and a wonderful way to start ($14). There’s enough to split, but back to that questionable service thing, they make you do it yourself unless you happen upon one of the one best servers, the charming Kip or Tioara, who is a Tahitian princess that makes you feel like you’re in her own home. The soup contains king crab, cilantro, Thai basic and mild jalapenos and has a rich smoky taste smothering thick noodles. If you can’t handle really hot, order it without the jalapenos. Although it’s hard to chose from the vast assortment of offerings, the Asian Shrimp Cake won first place award from “A Taste of Lahaina” and we discovered why. It’s crusted with crispy Chinese noodles, and served over ginger lime chili butter and cilantro pesto; it’s one of the best $7 dishes you’ll ever crunch.
If you have a yen for sushi, the panko crusted Ahi Sashimi sushi roll is sashimi grade Hawaiian Ahi, meshed with arugula and spinach and wrapped into a sushi roll, panko-crusted, flash-fried and served with mild soy wasabi butter sauce ($11). The Shrimp Dynamite is just that; don’t miss crispy tempura shrimp tossed with creamy garlic massago aioli with unagi glase drizzle ($11). Have we wet your appetites yet? There’s more. The Mango Crab salad roll consisist of Asian crab salad, ripe mangos, kula greens and crunchy peanuts wrapped in a marmenori handroll and served with sweet thai chili vinaigrette ($9).
Please continue to stuff yourself with the incomparable Matsuhisa style miso butterfish
which is Sensei’s take on a Japanese specialty; tender butterfish is marinated and seared in sake and sweet miso and melts in your mouth ($11). All their tempura dishes are absolutely yummie,
and they are all light and delicate, served with a traditional tentsuyu dipping sauce. The veggies somehow convince you that you’re eating healthy, but The Duo particularly recommends the sweet Maui Onion rings ($6) and the Hawaiian sweet potato ($5). Does anyone other than Scott’s mom really like eggplant? Well, in this case, yes, as the roasted Japanese eggplant with sweet miso sake sauce ($8) is sweet and delicious.
The desserts are simple, but one stands out ahead of the rest. The Granny Smith apple tart tartin is a buttery puff pastry topped with apple slices, baked to order and drenched in caramel sauce, then topped with creamy melting vanilla ice cream, all brought to us by the Hawaiian gods ($9).
The wine list is minimal, but who cares, that’s not why you’re coming. Jamie runs the front desk with the command of a 5 Star General, and she’ll make sure to find you a reservation, but do book ahead or you won’t get into the best and most reasonably priced food on the island.
By the way, after 10:00 PM on Thursday and Friday nights, all the sushi and appetizers are half price, and there’s free Karaoke, which is a bundle of fun. The Duo has it on good word that the owners are going to be opening a Sensai in Whalers Village on Kaanapali Beach in West Maui (where the beyond horrible Rusty Harpoon currently stands), and if so, don’t leave L.A. without making reservations. Other locations are in Kihei, maui, Waikiki Beach, Oahu, Waikoloa Resort, Big Island.
The Banyan Tree Restaurant
One Ritz-Carlton Drive
Kapalua, Hawaii 96761
Telephone: (808) 669-6200
Facsimile: (808) 669-1566
Happily, the Ritz-Carlton closed last June for a much needed multi-million dollar face-lift, which included all of its restaurants. Sadly, they failed to re-open by their scheduled December 15, 2007 expectations, and remain closed until after we departed in January. That said, the Banyan Tree Restaurant has been one of our favorites over the years and so we would like to bring you our thoughts of our last experience there, with the expectations (and inside gossip) that it will be even better when it re-opens.
Way around the west end of Maui, and a 15-minute car ride past the famous Kaanapali Beach (always voted one of the top 10 beaches in the world) is the elegant and gracious Ritz Carlton Hotel. From the moment you drive through a forest of tropical pines laced in a sea of twinkle lights, you know you’re somewhere special. Although the hotel’s other restaurants are good, skip them and walk down the stone steps surrounding the massive pool and enfold yourself with yet thousands more lights and the cacophony of serenading tree frogs. The treasure at the end of the path is what we believe to be one of the best restaurants on Maui, in atmosphere, service and delectable taste sensations.
The open-air restaurant is reminiscent of the quietude of Southeast Asian locales and is completed with the sounds of live music played from exotic Asian musical string instruments. Already transported by the time you reach your table, the wait staff seems to achieve the impossible by low-keyed Hawaiian standards by actually being trained at high levels of efficiency. Robaire, our usual waiter and the best of the best in Maui (we’ve been told he’s coming back, so make sure to ask for him) hailing from Lyon, France, embraces us with warm hugs and immediately gushes about the new menu items. JoJo Vasquez, the Executive Chef, seasons all the choices with the taste of his Filipino background, his Chicago upbringing and his experience as Chef at the Ritz Carlton in Marina Del Rey.
Delicate slices of fresh bread are served in an artistic display of olive oil and a mixture of nuts and spices. The “signature soup” is a mélange of coconut and sweet corn garnished with crab and cilantro, and laced with a hint of lemon grass; it was beyond sensational ($14.00). The lamb chops laced in pomegranate sauce were cooked absolutely perfectly and sported a combination of exotic tastes that resulted in the best lamb preparation Scott has ever tasted ($39.00). Coupled with some astounding wine selections, the slow and deliberate meal resulted in an unforgettable evening of fine dining.
NIKKI’S PIZZA
WHALER’S VILLAGE FOOD COURT
808 667-0333
LAHAINA MAUI
There are alternatives in Maui to $100 lunches and dinners and Nikki’s is one. Don’t expect any atmosphere as it’s in a food court next to Macdonald’s but do expect exceptional pizza that is amongst the best we’ve tasted. Nikki’s has a full Italian menu but you are best to stick to the food they’re known for, their Pizza with their recipe sauce, and our favorite is the basic, Pepperoni Lover, extra cheese and pepperoni, at $13.95 and up depending on size. One will get service with a smile from the local Filipino guys who are behind the counter and you might to finish your superb pizza off with one of fifteen of their homemade Maui ice creams. Scott tasted most of them and recommends the Kona Coffee, Chocolate and Mango flavors, which are off the hook and on the hips. Throw caution to the wind and order a thick shake; only your waistline will regret it, and who cares, you’re in paradise. Don’t miss this very simple treat.

ISLAND TIP:
Try something really different; take a trip to where the locals shop, the Takamiya Market in Wailuku, Happy Valley, on lower main street. The locals are not all that friendly to outsiders, but once you get past that, the Korean Short Ribs are to die for. Made with Shoyu, brown sugar, green onions, the little Hawaiian lady finally fessed up that the real secret is the addition of a splash of apricot brandy. Whatever the secret ingredient, you now know the secret path to getting the best ribs you’ll ever taste.
Sunday
Tuesday
Take a quick retreat from Ventura Boulevard by strolling into Yen Sushi and Sake Bar for some surprisingly delicious dishes. The small storefront restaurant is sleekly stylish and simply appointed, with wood floors, concrete-toweled walls, and a dozen heavy wood tables and chairs (which prove to be a tad bit uncomfortable on the backside). Thick bamboo pieces grace the entryway, after which the focal point of the restaurant is the sushi bar. As you walk in the door, a transformation begins and the friendly sushi chefs and wait-staff greet you immediately (all in Japanese, though we later found out they are predominantly from Korea).
The calming environment immediately sets the tone for a delightful assortment of sushi, nouveau Katsu-ya style semi-cooked sushi and traditional Japanese items. If you toast the chefs with a cup of saki, they will get very creative with their offerings. Michael adores sushi, so he gravitated to the Spicy tuna roll ($5.50), yellowtail ($6) and freshwater eel ($4.50), both of which delivered on freshness and taste. Scott doesn’t like sushi at all (“unless it’s cooked”); however, that said, their specialty of the house, the crispy rice with spicy tuna ($9.50), proved to be absolutely out of this world and worth braving the world of slimy uncooked things.
Make sure to start your meal with their miso soup, which is always tasty, and the “yummy-yummy crispy tuna” (that’s their name, not ours) appetizer ($8.50), which was just that. We recommend following with the broiled salmon steak with teriyaki sauce entrée ($17), which comes with a side salad and a tasty sprinkling of sticky white rice. Also worth noting is the pan-roasted lobster tail ($25). Unfortunately, we discovered that the wine selection is very limited, so we recommend bringing your own selection and paying a minimal corkage fee, which appears to be negotiable as it was presented to us as somewhere between “$10 to $15” (we paid $8).
Most nights are quite busy, and at times waiting for a table is mandatory. Monday nights are much slower, but the tranquility is interrupted by a flat-screen television screaming Monday night football. If you can get past a bunch of sweaty men in tights pouncing on each other (which, don’t get us wrong, can be of fun), and wish to bring your own wine, this little find on Ventura Blvd. (near Coldwater) will lure you back for meal after meal.
The Scene: A yen for zen
Cuisine: Traditional Japanese and more
Must-try: Crispy rice with spicy tuna
Star rating: 2.5
Average cost: Entrées range from $15-$26
Yen Sushi and Sake Bar
12930 Ventura Blvd. #120
Studio City, CA 91604
(818) 907-6400
Other locations in Century City and Belmont Shore, Long Beach
Much to our friends shock and dismay, two years ago we moved ever so slightly over the top of Mulholland; we call it: “North Beverly Hills”, but our friends call it Studio City. Being the food snobs that we are, we got our passport and shots and ventured into “the Valley” looking for signs of life, and amazingly, we found it.
Amongst the host of mediocrity, we discovered five stand out restaurants within 3 miles of our home. Here is a small sampling of the best Studio City has to offer, covering all price ranges.
Our favorite pick of the litter, ”Max”, is the creation of Philippino owner and chef, Andre Guerrero (formerly of Saddle Peak Lodge). As a result, all his presentations have an Asian fusion influence that is both distinctly exotic and wonderful. Remember, Michael is the meat eater, so he simply couldn’t resist the Applewood Smoked Baby Back Ribs, which proved to be amongst the best he had ever tasted. Scott chose his favorite standard, Salmon, but this Peppercorn dusted salmon dish moved to the head of the class. It was so expertly and deliciously prepared that he ranks it amongst the finest he has experienced in Los Angeles. We highly recommend the Thai Lemongrass Coconut soup, which percolates just the right combo of herbs and spices. After dining here three times, each experience proved to be a great one, along with excellent service. The atmosphere is very “valley” understated but certainly appealing and with entrees priced from $18.50-$28.00, it will not put a dent in your purse.
Max (open 7 days for dinner)
Max Restaurant
13355 Ventura Boulevard
Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
818-784-2915
When you have a craving for Mexican Food (and who doesn’t love those fat free, no carb chips and salsa?), not far down the road, you’ll find “Senor Fred”. Although most of the Mexican restaurants we’ve sampled on Ventura Boulevard leave your Pappi running for the border, there’s a reason why Senor Fred separates itself from the pack: it is also happens to be owned by the folks who own, Max. We have had two very pleasurable experiences there and one disappointing experience, with our 14-year-old godson, who was a good sport about his food never arriving, (but he filled up on perfect salsa and chips so he grinned and bore it). The Conchita Pabil, pork marinated in Banana leaves immediately brought Michael back to the years I spent in the Caribbean as a young boy; it is not to be missed. And for our women readers, the waitress, Cher, is such a hot tamale, she almost turned us around (emphasis on “almost”)! Most entrees are priced between $10.95 and $21.95.
Senor Fred (open 7 days for lunch & dinner)
13730 Ventura Boulevard
Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
818-789-3200
If you want a totally unique food experience, try one of our favorites, “Yoshi’s Shabu Shabu”, If you’re not familiar with Shabu Shabu, It’s a Japanese eatery where you cook your own food right at your seat by dipping pieces of pork, prime beef or chicken into a pot of steaming hot water. They start you off with two little salads of cucumbers and spinach, each with just the right exotic spices. We’re getting hungry just writing about the experience! Keep in mind, the atmosphere is so downscale and devoid of style, that this in and of itself is part of the charm—along with blaring florescent overhead lighting that makes every gay man run for cover. The attentive service from the owners and the staff more than compensates for the accentuated lines one might notice on your neighbor’s face. The price of dinner for two (approximately $50) is so cheap you’ll almost forget you’re cooking your own food.
Yoshi's Shabu Shabu Restaurant (open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday)
13573 Ventura Boulevard
Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
818-995-1660
“Albano’s Brooklyn Pizzeria” is neighborhood “run on in” kind of place that always delights our culinary senses. The style is “Brooklyn”, with red booths, simple tables and lots of pictures of mobsters and local celebrities (not mutually exclusive). The menu includes their homemade pastas (all of which are a attributed to “Mama Albano” by the owners, mama’s two handsome (and hunky sons) and extraordinary thin-crusted pizza. Most times, you might even find the boys themselves cooking in the kitchen. The storefront is spotless and offers indoor and outdoor dining (although outdoors offers a view of a parking lot facing Venture Blvd.). Be sure and check out Frankie, an adorable Italian boy from Eastchester, NY who knows what service is all about. We think he’s as straight as they come, but that doesn’t make his smile any less welcoming. We have been there many times and have never been disappointed. Dinner for two will run you approximately $30, unless a local “wise guy” wants additional “protection money”. Albano’s also has a more up-scale location on Melrose.
Albano's Brooklyn Pizzeria (open lunch & dinner 7 days)
12229 Ventura Boulevard
Studio City, CA 91604
818-760-8180
Albano's Brooklyn Pizzeria (open lunch & dinner 7 days)
7261 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, Ca.
323-934-2494
If you are a sushi eater, no doubt, you have heard the acclaim of “Sushi Nozawa”, infamously coined as the “Sushi Nazi”, after Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi, because the owner/chef is fond of yelling at you if he doesn’t like your order. Despite his ornery attitude, this is about as good as it gets as long as you ask for Chef’s special, $50-$75, plenty to satisfy the most die hard sushi fanatic. But remember, don’t ask for any substitutions or a California Roll, if you do, you will suffer the same fate as Nicolette Sheridan (which she recounted on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno), and be thrown out on your ears. It is worth putting up with as it has one of highest ratings in the Zagat Guide, as well as in the Michael and Scott Guide, and is worth the downside.
Sushi Nozawa open for lunch & dinner Monday-Friday
11288 Ventura Boulevard Suite C
Studio City, CA 91604
818-508-7017
SNAPSHOT: It may be slim pickings, but from Sushi to Pizza, folks are getting their passports and shots and venturing into “The Valley” for some mighty good eats.

