If you cross Gilligan’s island with Robinson Caruso, somewhere in between lays Le Taha’a Private Island and Resort. Actually, it too is on a Motu, not the actual island of Le Taha’a, which means that it has sandy beaches and blue lagoons, with some of the best coral and fish snorkeling in the region, if not the world. The island of Taha’a is often referred to as “The Vanilla Island” as much of the world’s natural vanilla comes from here. It was also the center for fire walking ceremonies. If the main island is quiet, the Private island resort is even quieter. Tom and katie Cruise recently stayed here for ten days in villa #7, which has a peek-a-boo view of the peaks of Bora Bora and was our villa, as well (however, the best view bungalows are #3 – 6).



Le Taha’a Gastronomique Quelle Horror!

Although the food in the Gastronomique restaurant is excessively expensive and close to atrocious (and not even worth reviewing, albeit a beautiful and intimate setting), the breakfast buffet is conversely rumored to be the best in French Polynesia, and we had to agree.

Carafes and teak boats filled with myriad food selections surrounded the plethora of items available for consumption when breakfast calories are of no concern. Served in their “Vanille” restaurant, which is a sensational tree-house looking area on raised pontoons, one can choose a table under the shade of a local palm and consume fabulous French baked goods such as croissants, croissants aux chocolate, muffins and more. The French Toast is fabulous and so are the pancakes. The bacon is imported from New Zealand, and it’s thick and smokey. There’s also all variety of egg dishes, including omelettes, and various salads and concoctions. Add all of that to island fresh yogurts made with all sorts of tropical fruits, pallets of fresh pineapple, mango, papaya, guava, grapefruit, bananas and more, and the only thing missing is a bigger stomach. Le Taha’a Private Island and Resort lacks the sophistication of its newer competitors in the islands, but that said, it is a fabulous place to start your trip, and an even better way to start your day with their breakfast buffet.

TE HONU ITI – MOOREA

Cook’s Bay
Tel 79 29 98
www.restohonuiti.com
referenced in “1000 places to see before you die”
Poele D’or 1974

Straight across the twelve mile Sea of the Moon from Tahiti, at only twenty square miles, this luxuriant and fertile island is dominated by spires and peaks. It is an amazing blend of lagoon, mountain, jungle and sea, and it explodes with natural beauty beyond description. So much so, that it’s been used by many filmmakers as backdrops of their productions, including Mutiny on the Bounty (starring a young Mel Gibson). The dramatic jagged peak of Mouaroa was inspiration for Michener’s Bali Hai”, and we were inspired by a little local restaurant that cooked up a feast to match its island home.

“The Little Turtle” in Polynesian, this small, captivating restaurant on the sea on the enchanting, lush island of Moorea delivers a big bang for the buck. Owned and operated by Chef Roger who immigrated from France 31 years ago, and his native Chinese-Polynesian wife along with their two adult sons, the cuisine is typical French utilizing only the very freshest of ingredients, spices and elements. The breads are all homemade (actually made by our waiter), and are to die for; which is what you actually may do before you leave the restaurant, so don’t plan on rushing through this meal.

Just a short drive from the docks at Cook’s Bay (They will pick you up from there and drop you off, free of charge, and in fact Chef Roger gave us a ride), what looks like a little shack, greets you with an aroma of food smells that is a little bit of heaven. Made from local woods, the establishment has window (well, there’s no glass) tables with views of the lush tropical landscapes and dramatic unspoiled mountains beyond. The dining room is dotted with paintings the Chef made himself and which are of course, for sale; his wife often sets up a table with pearls and other collectibles, many of which are quite beautiful and reasonable (although bargaining is not the course in the islands, we noted that she had no problem with lowering her prices if asked).

After gorging ourselves on the breads, Michael enjoyed the Seafood Soup which was loaded with shrimp, mahi mahi, and other assorted sea foods, and was sensational. He followed this with the mahi mahi smothered in vanilla sauce, and although all the dishes were a bit heavy on the sauces a la typical French fare, it too was sensational. Scott more than thoroughly enjoyed the fresh lobster which was one of the most tender and juiciest lobsters he’s eaten. It too had a creamy sauce of vanilla and other assorted spices, making the dish unforgettable. The lunch was a bit pricey at about $130, but well worth it. Be careful to take a Visa or Mastercard as they do not accept Amex and you may wind up doing dishes, which is what the waiter suggested when all we had was our American Express card. We could have left home without it.

The Polynesian Legend of the Test of the Javelin

There was a princess in the Hawaiian Islands who wanted to marry a valiant hero. The news came to Tahiti and Ta-fa’i, made the journey to Hawaii with his five cousins to seek her hand in marriage, but the king put their courage to the test.

Tafa’i and his cousins armed themselves with javelins. They were to kill the famous pig named “Whole Swallower”, a monster who ate people. The first Tahitian threw his javelin, which bounced off the thick hide of the pig, and then he was immediately swallowed up. The same fate awaited all the others too.

When it was Tafa’i’s turn, he plunged his javelin into the pig’s throat and emerged victorious. He carved up the pig and his cousins came out and returned to life. Tafa’I was recognized unquestionably as the greatest hero Hawaii had ever seen. The king offered his daughter’s hand in marriage, but to his surprise, the Tahitian warrior refused, declaring, “And now farewell, we are returning to our country”.

The Hawaiians understood that they had gravely offended their guests by imposing this test on them. The Tahitians returned home and decided to choose their brides in Tahiti, where there lived young girls of incomparable beauty. They had celebrations of legendary proportions, including fresh pineapples, mangos, papayas, grapefruits, bananas, breadfruit, and of course, roasted pig.



The moral of this legend: Tahiti is indeed close to heaven, and the food they prepare is not far behind. Make your own legends and put Tahiti and her islands on your travel and culinary map.

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French Polynesia: Somewhere in The middle of the South Pacific.


We have just emerged from the satisfying fog of a Balinese style massage in the 30,000 foot edifice with seven treatment rooms that comprises the spa facility at the St. Regis Hotel, Bora Bora. As our therapists smoothed into our skin the coffee and vanilla flavored oils, our minds drifted far, far away from the myriad problems of the fast life in Los Angeles, and settled into the calm induced by the fluttering of the palm frawns overhead. Slowly we remember what it is like to be human again, and this experience accentuated by the most beautiful surroundings on earth.

As we sit on our extensive balcony virtually floating on stilts over the electric turquoise waters of the Bora Bora Lagoon, a tour boat jettisons past while the guide announces that “those bungalows (Royal Over Water Pool Bungalow at 3455 square feet) over there are where the rich people stay”, and everyone starts waving; it’s not true, but we wave back knowing we’re living like them, if only for a few days. It’s nice to live like the super rich, and it certainly couldn’t get much better than this.

Bora Bora is a verdant jewel of an island set within a wide barrier reef. Like many of the islands here, it consists of the eroded cone of an extinct and extensive volcano, which is dominated by the spectacular basaltic mysterious looking mountain peak named Otemanu, which means the sea of the birds. Michener was inspired by Bora Bora, Gauguin painted it, and countless sailors, adventurers, poets and romantics have claimed it as there own piece of paradise. The Dining Duo has been added to that list.

There are 100 bungalows at the St. Regis Bora Bora, and each of them cost over a million dollars to construct. Many of them have their own private swimming pools, and Jacuzzis. You can stay in one of the two 3,455 square foot over water villas with private swimming pools for $5,000 (Bungalow #202 is by far the nicest on the property, with dead on views of Mount Otemanu, as well as the setting sun, and with total privacy from other bungalows; bungalow #103 comes close and is smaller and a fraction of the price), or you can share the same bed where Nicole Kidman slept (13,000 sq. feet) for $15,000 a night. Now that’s where the rich people stay. Other notable celebrities that have visited since the opening last June are Maria Shriver, Ronaldo, Tim Allen, Eva Longoria and Tony Parker, and of course, The Dining Duo.

The Lagoon Restaurant, by Jean Georges:

It’s hard to go wrong when you are supported by the beauty and elegance of the St. Regis Bora Bora; and yet, so much of the dining experiences in French Polynesia indeed seemed to have missed the boat. Once the locals stray from the fabulous array of fresh fruits, including bananas, pineapples, mangos, watermelon, grapefruits and more, the dining experiences become a bit more challenging. Some have attributed this to the difficulty of obtaining supplies in the middle of the Pacific Ocean; others to the Unions and laws protecting the people of French Polynesia. Whatever the reasons, the St. Regis has made a valiant attempt at bringing food sensations to match the natural beauty of the region.

Located at a breathtaking promontory overlooking the giant enchanting peak of Otemanu of 14 square miles of the island of Bora Bora (in fact, the resort is located on a Motu, or the equivalent of a sand bar, created by erosion from the cliffs of the actual island of Bora Bora, and then raised by the creation of corals and accumulation of sand), the restaurant décor is a perfect compliment to the surrounding views. Formed from sleek yellow willow woods from Malaysia and walls of glass, the interior is designed as a smart and hip environment, suggesting that the food is to match as well. The roof of this and all the other buildings are lined with hand woven “Pandanus”, a local reed that gives the appearance of a thatched roof, and immediately sets the tone of tropical paradise.

The real magnificent tables are outside, and unfortunately there are but a few, approximately seven, along with some chairs and tables from which a few couples can also enjoy cocktails ad appetizers. Reserve ahead for one of the outside tables as the world outside is just too magnificent to be indoors, if even only separated by glass. We suggest asking for the table closest to room 101, at the end of the dock (and please be careful of the odd placement of uplights in the middle of the walkways or you may also be experiencing the warm waters).

Jean-George Vongerichten of Paris fame, and 16 other restaurants worldwide, including “V” in Las Vegas, was asked to add his name and influence to the menu here, and it shows. The kitchen itself is run by Chef Romuald Feger, who had previously worked at New York’s Le Cirque. Having experienced mediocrity for several days, it was exciting to be viewing a menu of interesting, albeit limited, choices. We sat on the edge of the South Pacific and sipped on a glass of non-descript Syrah and Bordeaux, both of which were quite nice, although we would have preferred a more extensive selection of wines by the glass (they only offered two reds available).

We both started with appetizers as they all looked enticing. The crispy Shrimp (from just off the coast) wrapped in smokey thick bacon (from New Zealand) was extraordinary and we’re drooling for more as we write this (all menu prices are in French Island Francs, so throughout this article we will quote approximate USD $ rates$35.00 ). Of equal note was the Rice Cracker Crusted Tuna placed in a citrus emulsion ($36.00) that consisted of fresh tuna sashimi coated with a thin layer of crispy rice crackers. The Dining Duo is trying to eliminate Foie Gras from our dining experiences, but being in a French territory, well, c’est la vie. However, although we had great expectations, this dish for about $42 was tres disappointing; the use of fresh lychees and passion fruit gave it a bit of a bizarre and unsettling flavor.

The entrees (be careful, in all French speaking countries, “entrees” are equivalent to appetizers, and not the main course) were equally creative and tasty. That said, there was only one special the first night, and no special offerings the second night, which we found a bit disappointing. With only eight entrees on the menu, it was also disappointing that they did not have the Chili crusted rack of lamb in stock; apparently living on a motu in the middle of the ocean has it’s challenges. What we did eat we found spectacular. Do not miss the grilled Mahi Mahi which is cooked in a white sesame vinaigrette and served with a crunchy salad ($45). The fish was so fresh, Scott thought he saw it swimming to the table (by the way, once you fill up on the wonderful French fresh breads brought to the table, you can toss pieces over the edge and watch the hordes of fish gobble it up while you dine on one of their cousins on the table). Also of note was the charred Chicken. It was baked with spiced freshly picked pineapple, grapefruit and lime, and coated with coconut caramel ($46).
Nothing screams Tropical Island more than a mélange of fresh fruit. And speaking of fresh, while you dine, there’s always an assortment of young fresh waiters and waitresses to make the evening more interesting.

The service on various visits was rather odd; the same waiter who apparently serviced the cherished outside deck was distant and ill-trained, but somewhat pleasant. When we asked for descriptions of certain dishes, his responses were robotic and disinterested, making us wonder if he had memorized a script of sorts, or just couldn’t be bothered. Perhaps it was his training at the Sheraton in Papeete, or maybe it’s just attributed to “island-slow”. Whatever, too much of the overall external experience overshadowed this aspect, but as we all know, service can certainly add tremendously to a meal. (cut and pastes this par to go after the desserts).

Finally, there are the desserts, and you will not be disappointed. Chocolate is always the Duo’s preference and Jean-George delivers with a warm chocolate cake supported by a “boule” of homemade vanilla ice cream. By the way, Le Taha’a, the world’s largest supplier of real vanilla (most of what we get in the States is manufactured vanilla), is just a stone’s throw away, so vanilla ice cream here is a tastes sensation in and of itself. With seven different dessert selections, all of which were yum, we voted the Carmelized Banana Cake with praline crunch and slightly salted caramel ice cream as the second runner up. We would love to describe it in more detail, but we devoured it so quickly that all we remember is that was sensational. All the deserts are approximately $5.

It’s a long way to go for a fabulous meal, but once you do go, you’ll be counting the days until you return; we certainly are.

Keep your eyes open: The St. Regis just opened their new sushi restaurant, and although it was too new for the Dining Duo to review, the space was clean and very attractive, if not a bit too sterile. Michael did try their tuna sampler, which was exquisitely presented and as fresh as sushi could possibly be, a heavenly rapture of tuna and toro. Once they work through their infant stage, this little spot shows great promise for a different dining alternative on the island.


La Villa Mahana
Chef Damien Rinaldi Dovio


Do not go to Bora Bora without putting La Villa Mahana on your map. In fact, put Bora Bora on your travel plans, just so you can experience La Villa Mahana, which was single handedly the best restaurant we experienced in French Polynesia, hands down.

Chef Rinaldi, who hails from Corsica just off the Southern coast of France (think Napolean), cut his chops in France, and then landed the choice position first as Sous-Chef of Los Angleles’s Grande Dame, L’Orangerie, under our friend and gastronomic wizard, Ludo Lefebvre; and then stepping up as main chef once Ludo moved on to Bastide, When Rinaldi decided to move on, he took over Food and Beverage at the Pearl Beach Resort in Bora Bora, and then looked around at the gold mine that existed in this island paradise. It didn’t take long before he found the perfect little home on the coast of Bora Bora and transformed it into a Paul Gauguinesque cottage that accommodates only six tables; and outside, up a few dozen steep steps is a hidden one more table just perfect for lovers. From here, you can look down onto the garden patio, and over a small and private swimming pool that may end up as an after dinner treat for those more adventurous.

In the main cottage, a local artist has painted the ceiling with drawings of Tahitians dancing around you. At each table, there is a framed colorful piece of art, and some beautiful items of local jewelry; all are available for purchase, if you wish. Over the beautifully polished marble floors sits six charming tables, dressed in colorful cloths and set as if a group of friends were coming over. At the back of the room, the 31 year-old chef has his little kitchen from which he alone creates some of the most magnificent taste treats we’ve experienced in these South Pacific islands, let alone elsewhere in the world.

We suggest the tasting menu as it is the best way to experience what Chef can do in that little kitchen of his and without any help (by the way, if the Chef is ill or on vacation, the restaurant will close, so there is never anything less than perfection; otherwise, he keeps his restaurant open seven days a week, and we highly recommend making reservations way in advance from home by using his website at: www.villamahana.com; especially if you want the romantic table up the flight of stairs, then plan on reserving at least six months ahead).

The “Menu Discovery” for 85 Euros (or about $100, a true bargain in this part of the world) is nothing less than extraordinary. We began with the Amuse Bouche (“amuse your mouth’) which consisted of delicate crab on a salad of mesculin greens and sprinkled with some shaved parmesan cheese. Yum. The service was impeccable and the timing between courses also perfect (and something our restaurants in L.A. could learn from). Before we knew it, a little plate of fresh marinated ahi tuna arrived with vanilla oil dribbled on top. Oh my god, what more could we say that would translate onto the page? Following this, we devoured the Mahi Mahi (it’s dolphin fish, not the mammal dolphin, so don’t be scared off by it) baked with curry and coconut cream, the most amazing mashed potatoes we’ve eaten and garnished with a sliced banana on top. The local vanilla and coconut creams accented the entire dish such that the curry spice was a complimentary taste sensation.

As you know by now, Scott doesn’t eat red meat, and Michael had had his share of it at the moment, so we asked Chef (who came to our table himself and described the dishes prior to our ordering) to substitute something for this dish. He graciously accepted doing so, and suggested a lobster risotto, laced with parmesan cheese. The dish was so rich and exceptional that we both devoured it and almost couldn’t finish it, creating our first food oxymoron. We sipped on our bottle of Chateau Pez from St. Estephe 2000, a Bordeaux that complimented everything Chef served up to us. An appropriate ending, if this were not enough, two hot mouton chocolate (comprised of only the finest European chocolate) fondant cakes smothered with fresh homemade vanilla ice cream were delivered to our table for rapid consumption. And just when you thought it was safe to leave the table, the waiter whisked over a plate of petits fours for the road.

Between the atmosphere of this charming maison and the preparation and delivery of extraordinary dishes, we took the water taxi back to our motu across from Bora Bora, barely walked to our overwater bungalow, and fell swiftly asleep to the tune of the water lapping underneath our bed. Divine.


Next week: The Dining Duo visits yet more exotic island destinations and food sensations in French Polynesia. Come back and enjoy the voyage with us.

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SIMPLY MANUFIQUE!

Getting Lost in the French Polynesian Islands and eating your way home.
Part One


Just four hours beyond Hawaii, and hundreds of years back in time, we discovered heaven on earth, French Polynesia. Simply put, if there is paradise right here on earth, this is it. Due to the islands exotic nature, sun-blessed climate, interesting history and unspoiled natural beauty, the draw to this part of the world has been immeasurable. James Michner, “Anyone who has ever been there, wants to go back.”


LE LOTUS
Intercontinental Hotel, Papetee, Tahiti

“Tahiti” has become synonymous with all the islands of French Polynesia, as it is in fact the gateway to the area. However, it is really the name of the main island; much the way that there is an island named “Hawaii” and yet the chain consists of many other islands, and yet that one name has come to signify the entire chain. With Papeete as it’s capital (and the capital of French Polynesia), it is both commercial on the one hand with an international airport shuttling worldwide visitors and a port loading and unloading cruise ship passengers, and beautiful on the other hand, with waterfalls in the interior and stunning views of Moorea just across the sea. Papeete is a recent invention, founded in 1812, and is very much a provincial French town with a distinctly Pacific flavor. In addition to Polynesian, you’ll find French, Chinese and a host of other influences, all of which have affected the flavor of the foods as well.

Reputed to be the nicest restaurant in Tahiti (although there are others, including Coco’s and the Pink Coconut, but they do not measure up to Le Lotus), Le Lotus is located in the nicest hotel on the island, the Intercontinental Hotel, which is about 10 minutes from the ship docks and 5 minutes from the airport. All the flights are set up so that one has to stay on Tahiti either coming or going on your trip, so our suggestion is to stay here and get one of the best overwater bungalows, which are bungalows 507 through 511 (although 511 is currently under construction and without a deck and all of the interiors are in dire need of a remodel); 510 is the best, affording fabulous views of Moorea, and allowing a ton of privacy for naked sun bathing and swimming.

The “restaurant gastronomique” as it is referred to, is towards the end of the property, and located down a short pier, dangling over the water. There are two circular platform areas that hang over the waters edge, holding about 8 tables each and enjoying spectacular views of Moorea across the sea. There is also an inner restaurant area on land which is utilized when the waves in the lagoon act up and splash directly into the over water dining areas. To add to the already fabulous atmosphere, there is a pianist most nights that affords tickling of the ivories over the sounds of gentle splashes. Crossing the bridge into the dining area, myriad fish swim towards the surface, hoping for a handout from the patrons.

Frank David, Vice Best Chef of French Polynesia, along with the Chef of Le Lotus and L’auberge de Li’ll have established a three star gastronomic dining experience that they themselves tout as “the summet of the gastronomic world”. Although a bit lofty, the claim is mostly substantiated and the dining experience, albeit it according to French Polynesia time (which is either terribly romantic or terribly slow), is wonderful. Once again, if you’re in a rush, try a different part of the world.

The restaurant offers a packaging of sorts for a better price benefit, and it is indeed wise to choose one of these offerings as a la carte can run you a small fortune. We suggest the “Gourmet Menu” which allows you three courses; a cold or hot starter, a main course and finally a dessert (approximately $90 per person). There were several starters that proved to be wonderful and beautifully displayed on unusual plates. The Duck Carpaccio (from the lunch menu) was fabulous; an entire plate of thinly sliced duck was covered with a thin layer of fresh fruits resulting in a dynamic presentation and taste treat. Michael enjoyed the cold foie gras “pressee”, which was half cooked duck foie gras, toast of gingerbread, apple and walnut chutney and served with a light and fluffy slightly toasted brioche. Even though the Duo had sworn off foie gras for “political reasons”, Scott just couldn’t help himself and ordered the warm pan friend foie gras that was laced with vanilla and pineapple. Both foie gras dishes were cooked to perfection, so much so that it almost made you forget exactly from whence it had come.

The main courses offered a variety of selections. Michael sampled the veal fillet medium rare, which was tasty but a bit tough. It came with a side dish of fresh ravioli, mozzarella and tomato confit, which enhanced the overall dish; that said, it would be a pass for something better the next time. Scott enjoyed the fresh “red” tuna with “acidulous flaveur and soya”, which was an unusual concoction of flavors that we have still yet to figure out. The fish was tender and fresh, but the overall dish lacked inspiration and was also probably not worth a repeat. What was amazing was the lunch main course selection, the sautéed lobster tail, which was fresh, tender and succulent, and was served with a side dish of a pastry wrapped around a ratatouie. There is little question it was just fished from the waters under the restaurant and the amount offered was perfect. Although it did not appear on the dinner menu, the folks here are very accommodating and we suggest you insist on this entrée.

Desserts are fabulous here so make certain to order several (who cares about calories…the Polynesians like hefty looking folks anyway). The presentation is just as exciting as the flavors. All the restaurants in these islands seem to be big on “molten chocolate cakes”, but that said, Le Lotus did a particularly good job. They call it a chocolat fondant with crème anglaise. The chocolate used is a rich quality and is divine, and of course, the ice cream is home made with the local fresh vanilla. Another noteworthy choice is the white chocolate and passion fruit duo served on a bed of fresh bananas and pineapple, and then laced with vanilla. The Lime cheesecake was a bit overcooked, but it came in a pastry crust that made it unusual. It was also served with a “strawberry milk-shake” which topped the charts as to the best we’ve ever tasted. Finish off with a port, and your set for the night.

Of course, the best desserts are the bellmen in the lobby who meet your car while shirtless and wearing a skimpy parea. That’s sure to satisfy any sweet tooth, no matter what your taste buds yearn for.

Next Week: Eating your way around French Polynesia continues with exotic Bora Bora...

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