Sunday
The New York Palace Hotel
455 Madison Avenue at 50th street
New York, NY 10022
Tel: (212) 888-7000
Fax: (212) 303-6000
http://www.newyorkpalace.com/
As you enter the dining room you seem to be transported to a 19th century mansion and you are actually are. One can envision how the super affluent of the 1880’s felt while being served by a cadre of eager servants, but the fare, naturally, is very 2010.
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Saturday
Email to The Dining Duo and we'll post it once we taste it and agree. FabDiningDuo@aol.com
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Friday
"Cornet" of Marinated Atlantic Salmon "Tartare" with Sweet Red Onion Crème Fraîche Sesame Seed Tuile Serves 8
7 oz All Purpose Flour2.5 oz Granulated Sugar1 t Kosher Salt8 oz Egg Whites1 lb Butter, Unsalted1 T Black Sesame SeedsProcedure:1. In a medium mixing bowl, mix the flour, sugar and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk thesoftened butter until completely smooth. Using a stiff spatula, beat the egg whitesinto the dry ingredients until completely smooth. Whisk in the softened butter inthirds, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary until the batter is creamy andsmooth. Transfer the batter to a smaller container.2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Make a 4” hollow circular stencil. Place a silpat on thecountertop. Place the stencil in one corner of the silpat and holding the stencil flat,scoop some of the batter onto the back of an offset spatula and spread it in an evenlayer over the stencil. Then run the spatula over the entire stencil to remove anyexcess batter. There should not be any holes in the batter.3. Lift the stencil and repeat the process until the entire silpat is full, leaving 1 ½”between each tuile. Sprinkle each cornet with a pinch of black sesame seeds.4. Place in the oven and bake until lightly golden brown. Open the door of the oven andplace the sheet tray on the oven door. Flip the tuile over and place a 4 ½” cone moldat the bottom of the round. Fold the tuile over the cone mold and roll into a coneshape. Let rest around the mold to cool with the seam side down.5. When all tuiles are cool, return to the oven to bake for an additional 3-4 minutes toset the seam and the golden brown color.Salmon TartareServes 84oz Salmon Fillet1 t Extra Virgin Olive Oil1 t Lemon Oil1 T Chives, Finely Chopped1 T Shallots, Finely ChoppedTo taste Kosher SaltTo taste Fresh Ground PepperProcedure:1. Skin and remove any pin bones on the salmon and trim to a 4oz portion.2. With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet and place in a small bowl.3. Stir in the remaining ingredients and taste for seasoning.4. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the tartare for at least 30 minutes or up to 12 hours.Sweet Red Onion Crème FraicheServes 82 T Red Onions½ Cup Crème FraicheTo taste Kosher SaltTo taste Fresh Ground White PepperProcedure:1. Finely mince red onions. Place them in a small strainer and rinse with cold water fora few seconds. Dry them on paper towels.2. In a small metal bowl, whisk the crème fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, oruntil it holds soft peaks.3. Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste with salt and white pepper.
Adapted from The French Laundry Cookbook by Artisan
Per Se Restaurant
www.perseny.com10 Columbus CirNew York, NY 10019(212) 823-9335
As our loyal readers know, we don't review a restaurant unless we've been there three times but since Per Se is such an extraordinary experience and almost impossible to get into, we’re writing about it on one visit.
Bravo Thomas Keller! Per Se stands amongst the top five meals Michael has experienced in his lifetime including his tours of Bordeaux and Paris. The service headed by Jonathan Gilbert at our table cannot be compared to any other New York dining experience. The attention to each detail, the timing and, most of all, the sampling of nine courses, each one an unforgettable experience on it's own, proved exemplary and shouldn’t be missed in this lifetime.
Of particular note, the "Oysters and Pearls" (see below) consisted of a sabayon (beaten egg and wine) with fresh oysters and white sturgeon caviar and the parsnip-vanilla soup which served as an amuse bouch and a perfect beginning. Run don't walk (but call two months in advance) and sell whatever stocks you have left; $1100 for lunch for two with wine pairings. Don’t worry, tip was included.
The trash-talking reality chef Gordon Ramsay helps other restaurateurs turn around troubled restaurants, but his advice hasn’t helped him much with his own fine dining establishments. Four of his restaurants—in L.A., NYC, Paris and Prague—“were starting to hemorrhage” money last year, said Ramsay. An auditor recommended Gordon Ramsay Holdings Ltd. file for bankruptcy, while Ramsay, age 42, sold his Ferrari and considered listing his London home for sale. He’s exited Prague and given ownership of L.A. and Paris back to the hotels in which they’re housed. Check, please.
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Gordon Ramsay at the LondonNYC Hotel
151 West 54th Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues)
New York NY 10019
(212) 468 8888
Gordon Ramsay, proprietor of many dining establishments worldwide, has bestowed two Michelin stars on America with the creation of his new, slick fine dining establishment in the equally tailored LondonNYC hotel.
Located on 54th street just a block and a half off upscale Fifth Avenue, this equally chic eatery was worth every bit of the trip from Los Angeles. Upon entering through a young and happening bar scene, we were whisked off to our table with all of the grace and style of the top-notch service that followed suit. The room was a simple rectangle, with only fourteen tables, but designed in such a pleasing fashion that we felt both private in our own dining experience, and yet part of the room’s energy as well. The walls are a series of stylized arcs made of a special breed of plastic that mimics that of mother of pearl. The lighting was simple, yet elegant, and the tables are neatly fitted with linens and accompanied by fine, yet unassuming china and cutlery.
After being seated, we were immediately greeted by a gentleman with a silver container full of various champagnes. We indulged in bellinis (a mix of champagne and peach puree or peach liquor), although the presentation of other champagnes was compelling. The menu selections were enticing and there was both a chef’s menu of many courses and an abbreviated chef’s menu, each that allowed you to experience the flavors without having to purge after you’ve finished. We were also told by the gracious and superbly trained waiter that the Chef would tailor any items that didn’t fit within our palate or liking; a nice touch for restaurants of this stature that at times tend to be too finicky for our tastes.
We started with a confit of foie gras with slow cooked free-range chicken, complete with a quail’s egg, which proved to be a wonderful combination. This was followed by baked fluke (very much like a flounder fish) and a superb venison with a hint of cocoa butter, something the Dining Duo has not tasted before. The venison dish was a outstanding blend of one of our favorite meats along with an unusual choice of spice. The cannon of lamb arrived perfectly cooked at our requested medium rare and although Scott is not a fan of olives, he devoured the olive crusted potatoes.
We chose not to have the cheese course so we could sample all the desserts, which looked yum, but the cheese cart was elegant and enticing. The passion fruit in cream, laced with coconut and mint, was delicious. We also sampled the chocolate fondant with banana ice cream and a side of malted milk, which was whimsical and mouthwatering.
The service was superlative. Only the captains, and not runners, served us; a touch that we recognized and appreciated. There was no disturbing grand introductions of the food we had ordered, and no questioning who got what; just simple elegant service of the finest training. We ended our gorgeous evening with their suggestion of an apple tart tartin for two, baked upside down, and served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. It was heavenly. Even though we’re chocolate folks, we were pleased we chose this one.
We asked for a tour of the kitchen, and were surprised to see an amazingly clean, large operation functioning like a fine, well-oiled machine. We met the chef de cuisine, Josh Emett (with his charming Kiwi accent) who could not have been nicer and we noticed a fabulous table for up to eight folks right in the kitchen. For $1,700 that table can be yours and up to seven friends. You can observe all the workings of the kitchen, and even have a hand in making one of your courses. Somehow dining in fine clothing and a chef’s smock adds to the experience, and we can’t wait to try this table on our next visit to the Big Apple.
The London NYC -- The New Address in New York City
Location, location, location. Hook a left out the front door and in just over a block, you’re walking on Fifth Avenue right in the heart of all the grand shops. Turn right out the door and in just a few blocks you’re in the theatre district, and a few more take you to Time Square. The Hotel is on the new side and still experiencing minor growing pains (such as counting more than fifty rings when calling the front desk on a few occasions), but for the most part it excels by New York high-end standards. All the rooms are suites, and although some don’t have the best views, the more expensive rooms, Vista Suites, do afford very nice city views.
The rooms are all about 500 square feet, which is huge by comparison to most other hotels. They are decorated in a tailored, yet minimal fashion. With an anteroom done in whites and pastel blues, there is a fashionable sofa (pretty, but unwelcomingly hard and uncomfortable), and a coffee table that swivels to the height of a dining table (be careful not to swivel it too fast as we did just that and managed to dump a box of Magnolia cupcakes on their pretty carpeting—frosting down, but shhh, don’t tell anyone). The bedroom is even more minimal. In fact there is no art anywhere in the suite, which struck us as too stark. The bed is extremely comfortable, the tailored fine linens high end, crisp and sporting a squashy down comforter with yielding down pillows. The windows are sealed nicely, keeping most of the New York soundscape out of the room.
The bathroom, designed by David Collins and Waterworks, has one of the largest showers we’ve seen, which, according to the bellhop, can hold 8 people (“12 if the people are from L.A. because they’re skinnier”); with two showerheads on each end for more fun. Oddly, there was no circulating fan in the bathroom, which made for unpleasant experience if you are sharing it, or just wanting to look at yourself in the mirror after a shower. There is a sign suggesting the promotion of “Green” hotel living by utilizing your towels more than once, but once you’ve wiped down the mirror several times after each shower with the towel, the concept of using it again on your body goes out of plan (and, by the way, at the prices of nearly $1,000 per day, do we really need to have a sign in the bathroom reminding us to be good global citizens?).
That said, between the tremendous location, the chic appearance, the size of the suites and the hip crowd, we’d give it another shot the next time we were in the Big Apple. And, we’ll be dining at Gordon Ramsay’s elegant creation without hesitation.