The Montage Hotel Beverly Hills
225 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, California
Scarpetta
310. 860-7800
Nonna of Italy
West Hollywood
9255 W. Sunset Blvd. No 100
West Hollywood, CA
310. 270-4455
Five great stories (at least we think so) are included in this review, so don’t stop at the first; keep reading them all…you’ll be pleased you did.
* or any other day, for that matter.
"We can go to a movie. We can have lunch. We can go to a museum. Any other ideas?" -- Wondering in Beverly Hills
Dear Wondering,
Wonder no further and wander a bit west.
Impossibly located on the edge of a man-made “Lake Of Dreams”, surrounded by a small forest of trees that change colors at the whim of the wizard behind the curtain who has created five different mini shows to overload your senses, this locale, along with it’s neighbors SW and Parasol Down, captures the magic and inspiration of Las Vegas...
Bartolotta
Let’s start off by saying Paul Bartolotta is a James Beard winner that, of course, sets the stage for a meal of paramount importance. His goal is to transport the guest to a restaurant in Italy. He met his goal, and took home a gold medal.
Although the inside of the restaurant is of a beautifully articulated Mediterranean décor, it’s all about the outside dining here. Waltzing down a twirling staircase, then exiting to the outdoors, it’s difficult not to audibly gasp. A series of olive and white-stripped cabanas surround a small lagoon dotted with mirrored globes; just the Vegas touch to remind you of where you are. As if you’re in a cavern, you’re surrounded by a copse of trees and dazzled by the intimate setting as if the creation was waiting just for your arrival. Book way ahead for these much sought-after cabanas.
With all the fish flown in daily from Italy, we had an eating orgy by tasting twenty-two varieties of local Italian fish that were all micro chipped to insure absolute freshness and that none were older than 36 hours (in fact many are live in the restaurant).
There are so many sensational choices offered by Chef Paul that we will just highlight a few but suffice it to say, one can not go wrong with anything on the menu. Our favorites included the Ravioli di Ricotta con Caciotta Toscana ($15), which is sheep’s milk ravioli that literally melts in your mouth, with a Marsala wine glaze. 
We also loved the Spaghetti con Ragu di Crostacei, ($20), which is a classic dish but then adds a load of lobster, shrimp and crab (that could not be any fresher), finished in a white wine sauce.
Each and every fish we tasted was delicious and fresh.
We kept hoping to eliminate some of the 22 choices we tasted, but we must confess that any selection you make will be an outstanding one. We recommend reaching out of your comfort zone and tasting something that you just won’t find in America; we did, and it was like taking an exotic vacation to a far-flung fishing village.
As authentically Italian as Chef B himself, we can’t wait to come back for some more scrumptious meals at this inviting and triumphant restaurant.
Wazuzu Revizzited
We couldn’t come back to the encore without revisiting Chef Jet Tila at Wazuzu (see our past review);
try his Special Sushi platter ($60), and now his extraordinary Tom Kai Gar Soup ($12) is on the menu at our request and I’m sure many others have asked for it be added. Wazuzu is one of the best casual dining experiences in Las Vegas and is not be overlooked, especially if you’re having a yen for pan-Asian delights. Speaking of, Chef Jet is pretty delightful himself, so ask to meet him and tell him the Dining Duo sent you.
The Country Club 
It’s really not about food here, it’s all about the exquisite setting. It’s hard to believe that you’re in Las Vegas when you take a seat on the balcony overlooking a giant waterfall and rolling hills of verdant golf links. With nothing but big sky beyond, we didn’t much study what were eating, but instead took in the delightful afternoon in nature, something completely missing from the hectic strip. It was like having a meal at our own private country club.
That said, I had a mango smoothie that was fresh and delicious
and we suggest you try the open faced French Dip ($22), an updated recipe of a classic dish. 
They also have a great selection of burgers and our favorite was Smoked Chipolte Burger with guacamole and Ortega peppers which was spicy but won’t leave you hungry ($22).
Work it Off or Rub it Off
The Spa and Gym at the Encore are beyond beyond. We raved about the Spa the last time we were here, and it held up to our recollections the second time (for your convenience, see the sidebar for that story). We had no intention of exercising any of our muscles, but had we, the gym was large and complete with everything you could ever desire. We headed for the wet areas to soak and steam our bodies. This time, we decided to get couples massage in the tranquil—if not hypnotic—couples room. 
The amble from the men’s area down the walkway of Moroccan and Asian inspired treatment rooms immediately put us in a space that we wish we could bottle and take home with us. Once in the elegantly appointed room, complete with electric massage beds and a private wet area, we floated off to massage slumber with thoughts of sugar plum fairies dancing in our stomachs.
Now Shake Your Booty at the Pools
If you’re going to live like a Rock Star, you have to relax like one. There’s two choices: Cabanas at the Encore which are high energy pumping music and skin galore;
or Cabanas at the Wynn, which wreak of elegance and exhibit a quietude exampled by fluttering sheers in the wind. Either one you choose is like having your own little house by the pool.
The first few days, we suggest booking Cabana #20 at the Encore because the energy will spur you on for more late nights, more shows, more gambling, more food, and much, much more people watching. We think this is the best cabana because it’s upstairs and thus removed from the steady thumping of the ubiquitous music, but close enough to the stairs and bathrooms to make it a perfect lookout point for the young flesh that’s pressing in the pool. It also gets sun almost all day because of its location relative to the high-rise buildings, with plenty of shade inside. Better than most hotel rooms, the cabana comes equipped with everything, including sofa, lounges, mini-bar, drinks, sound system, flat screen, telephone, towels and fantastic service, including that of Lui, who waited on our every need. If you forget to put sunscreen on, try the Lobster Roll and blend.
Once you’ve overdone it in L.V. with too much of everything, book Cabana #203 at the Wynn. 
Beyond elegant and evoking thoughts of Cannes or St. Tropez (sans attitude or throngs of people), these airy and incredibly spacious cabanas are so dreamy you won’t want to close your eyes and drift off into your own dreams. #203 has three openings and is therefore very breezy, not to mention you can see all aspects of the many pools from which you can choose to dip your ever-growing hiney. There’s even a private pool for just the few cabanas at this location. Complete with all the goodies that the Encore has, this locale exudes a sense of calm that evokes a hush over those enjoying around you; great for hangovers and such. Ask for Denise, the most fun and coolest “pool girl” you’ll meet in Vegas. She’ll follow your cue: if you want peace and quiet, she’ll accommodate you with gentle but attentive service, and if you want some high-energy fun, she’s right there in it. Try the Oreo’s with ice cream for a yummy snack. 
The Dining Duo hasn’t figured out how to get the cabanas into our suitcases, so we’ll have to come back. Book ahead or you’ll probably find us in the two we suggested.
It sure seems like the Dining Duo has fallen in love with the Encore and the Wynn, and that's because we have! We've been all over Las Vegas and these two hotels simply offer it all. We almost never had to leave since there was everything we wanted here and more. It's been nice to hear the feedback from our readers on the first two parts of this story; so many of you have followed our advice and experienced the same level of satisfaction as we have. We're certain we'll be hearing a lot more from the rest of you. Until then, we'll be poolside in one of our favorite cabanas, taking in the scene, and planning our next meal.
Appetizingly yours,
The Dining Duo
Bravo. Encore!
Encore Las Vegas
702. 770-7171 for hotel reservations
888. 320-7110 for dinner reservations
There’s the train of thought that a “junior” is never quite as good as the “senior”; a copy of an original is somewhat less than. Throw that concept out along with the fear that you can’t afford Vegas in these tough times. Steve and Elaine Wynn have brought us Vegas like you’ve never seen before, and this time it’s on steroids: The Encore Hotel and Spa.
You might as well plan on spending your entire stay at the Encore (with a field trip to the neighboring Wynn), because there is so much to do, see, and eat that there’s no need to go anywhere else. At the end of the famed Las Vegas Strip, the gold shimmering Encore is a product of imaginative genius and detail that one-ups its already superlative neighbor. From the exquisite tropical flowers in the lobby
to the seamless and friendly check-in, we knew we were in for a treat.
Arriving on the 61st floor (we suggest booking a strip-view room, and hook a right when you exit the elevators for a room as far in that direction as possible), we opened the doors to sweet suite that has absolutely outdone anything we’ve seen in Vegas before. Some creepy owner somewhere once thought that ugly rooms will keep people on the casino floors spending, but finally the Wynns have realized that indulgence, sophistication and luxury only encourage you to open your wallets all the more. There are Salon and Tower suites on each floor that range from an unheard of 1,408 to 2,261 square feet of exquisite marble bathrooms, handsome wood furniture and electric curtains that open to floor to ceiling, wall to wall awe-inspiring views of the strip and the mountainous desert beyond. Like flies, we had our noses glued to the window taking in the scene like a kid waiting in line at Disneyland for that ride on the Matterhorn. Add in an abundantly comfortable bed with divine sheets and beyond-soft down pillows, and you have a win-Wynn situation.
SINATRA’S
Man cannot live by a fabulous hotel room alone, one must eat; and eat is what we kept doing. The first stop for dinner must be Frank’s place. If you like Italian, you will love this restaurant. Steve Wynn sets the tone at the door with a picture of his young self with Frank, and when you swing through the doors, with the sound of Frankie swooning in the background, and non-stop Sinatra movies playing in the bar, you feel as though you’ve arrived in Frank’s personal dining room. Elegant and comfortable, the light wood paneling centers a simple 50 x 100 photo of Frank. The soft orange tablecloths offset the giant green chandeliers that have a slight pagoda look. There is an expansive wall of windows that overlook lush formal Italian gardens, complete with pergolas and fireplaces, where you can dine during the warm weather nights. The details to be served on your plate are initiated with even the fine linen napkins, embroidered with butterflies, all to compliment the smart leather chairs.
The Dining Duo always hates when a waiter says, “everything on the menu is good”, so it pains us to relay that, everything on the menu is not good; it’s great. The sommeliers at all of the Wynn restaurants are top notch, so we threw ourselves into their hands at each restaurant, asking for appropriate pairings. Executive Chef (and one heck of a nice guy) Theo Schoenegger, has created a menu that is simple, but sublime. We suggest starting with the Cappesante ($21), which was a most unusual combination of seared Maine diver scallops, celery and kumquats. It practically melted on our tongues and we are not even scallop fans. The Zuppa di Fagioli (no comments please, and it was $15) was light and flavorful as it offset the bean soup with tubettini and garlic and rosemary oil. Butternut squash is becoming de rigeur as of late, but Frank’s puts a spin on theirs by adding vanilla and amaretto which sets it apart from the pack.
There is a dish which we have to rate amongst the best we ever tasted and we can not recommend it highly enough: Uovo in Raviolo, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Truffled Beurre Noisette, quite simply this is soft boiled egg in a ravioli with black truffles ($25). When you break the egg yoke and it combines with the other pasta ingredients, it creates a taste sensation that is unparalleled.
It’s a shame you can eat both meat and a fish entree, because the dishes are fabulous. Scott had the Black co with lentils, celery puree, pancetta and vinaigrette ($45) that proved to be tender and succulent. Michael, the meat eater, devoured the Ossobuco “My Way”. The veal was, well, like “butta” and was served with risotto cannelloni for ($49). There are only four side dishes, Rapini, Ratatouille, Mashed potatoes and wild mushroom sauté ($9 - $12), and we particularly enjoyed the blend of spices in the vegetable ratatouille. Ready to burst, we only tried two desserts, the chocolate sweetheart cake and pumpkin cheesecake, both scrumptious and accompanied by Dow’s 1985 Vintage port and Cockburn’s ten-year-old Tawny port. One should allow Jennifer Eby, the wine manager, to pick out pairings for each course as her choices were nothing short of brilliant. Sadly we had to cut the dining experience short because we were rushing to see Elton John in one of his last performances, and at the end of the show we got to work off the calories because we went on stage and danced and sang around his piano with about 30 of our closest new friends.
SOCIETY
Waking up to this amazing view, we worked up quite a hunger for brunch, and although there are so many choices, the one you simply cannot miss is Society. Elizabeth Blou conceptualized an Oscar Wilde feel for the room, and it proved to be a perfect place to snuggle into and stuff our faces. The décor is opulent, done up in greens and vibrant pinks, framed by lush green and white striped curtains that surround a room of coffered walls and rich paneled walls. The Asian theme is carried over here too with the accents of lime green chandeliers and two giant kensha palms in Asian pots. The black crocodile chairs and tables make the room come alive.
Be prepared to gorge on everything breakfast (there’s more, but this place is “it” for breakfast items). The sticky bun is the best, sweet, most fabulous sinful experience you can have this side of a downtown girlie bar. Piping warm, you can feel the cholesterol coating your pipes. Don’t miss it. The waffle was made with pumpkin and pecans and slathered in butter ($15), and was a sweet tooth’s fantasy. The French toast was surrounded with cornflakes, proving a nice texture and flavor. It was decadent and rich, but certainly hits the spot, especially with the serving of caramelized bananas and chocolate cream ($14). The Eggs Benedict were superb, primarily because of the homemade muffins. The eggs were perfectly cooked, soft on the inside, firm on the outside; and the Hollandaise was gooey and fresh ($15). Do not leave without trying Society’s signature dish, the ultimate Steak and egg sliders. The beef tenderloin, scrambled eggs and creamed spinach were all on a bacon-cheddar muffin ($16) and you simply cannot believe that something could taste so good. Wash it down with a great Caesar Bloody Mary (spiced like a Caesar salad), and you’re ready to hit the spa. By the way, Patrick is the manager and if you mention the Dining Duo, he’ll get you past the ubiquitous line to enjoy all of the above.
WAZUZU
Still hungry? No problem, you don’t have to walk far. Encore created Wazuzu restaurant, a pan-Asian bistro with a gorgeous red and white intimate dining room that sets the stage for the meal, with Thai-American Chef Jet Tila conducting the orchestra. Anchored by a giant Swarovski crystal dragon that took thirteen months to create, white leather booths and chairs are splayed over a carpet of multicolored fans, with accents of gold leafed giant pears.
Jet, an approachable, affable and beyond creative chef has enjoyed an interesting background of writing for the L.A. Times, working for his family in the restaurant biz, and as a private chef for Reba MCintyre and Jim Belushi. He has Grace, Boulevard and The Hungry Cat under his belt as well, but this time Steve Wynn allowed him to bring not a fusion or Asian flavors but an array of tastes from all regions of Asia: Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Singaporean, and Thai cuisines. It’s all about “Sebai Sebai”, which in Thai, means “easy going” or “comfort”. The Dining Duo loved spending Valentine’s Day here (and our 23rd anniversary) because the place is comfort, while screaming red, as well as passion.
At Wazuzu, Chef strives for a balance of tastes: hot, salty, sour and sweet, resulting in what the Thai’s call “yum”, a midpoint between these four flavors which result in balance. We found this balance in so many taste treats that our stomach said “yum” over and over again. If you’re daring, ask to try the Bitter Melon with minced pork and 1000 year old egg ($28), a classic Chinese dish with detox health benefits which Americans don’t have the taste for but Michael loved, Another classic taste treat is the Northwest Roll ($30), spicy tuna expertly chosen with salmon sashimi, and, if you ask, their home made Wsasabi.
We’ve been told that the way to judge Thai food is by their Thom Khar soup and chef Jet tested his out on his; it should be on the menu shortly and it was sensational, once again, the perfect blend that he had mentioned to us. Be sure and try the Roti Panang ($12), the velvety curry chicken, which is creamy, and the curry taste is not overwhelming, it is just perfect.
The average check at Wazuzu is about $45 per person and it may be one of the best deals in town and on your way out, cleanse your palate with their Ice Kachang, straight out of Singapore, ($9), shaved ice and red beans with tropical fruit.
Lusting for more Large Living in Las Vegas? More of the spectacular Encore Hotel next week...keep your eyes open for it!
Appetizingly Yours,
The Dining Duo
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Michael H. Epstein & Scott E. Schwimer take on the food & Hotel scene around the globe. Lovers of food, life & each other, who knows more about luxury hotels & the restaurant scene than two partners who eat out 21 meals a week for 28 years together? Look for them at the best restaurants & resorts on the planet. > More about the Dining Duo |
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